Flavors of Fall

We often use this space to talk about seasons. It is natural to the world of wine to think of seasonality for a number of reasons:

• Ours is an agricultural product. Everything we do is governed by the changes in weather and the natural cycles of the earth. We prune when it is time to prune, we plant cover crops in their due time, and when the fruit is ready to harvest, we have to jump on it. An extra day can make the difference between a pretty good wine and a great wine. Determining when to take the various actions in the vineyards is dependent on the conditions that nature gives us.
• Weather often determines the types of wines we feel like drinking. Yes, there are those who will want a deep, rich Cabernet Sauvignon even on the hottest days, but most of us find that a crisp, refreshing rosé is the right choice when temperatures soar.
• Wine and food go together. Period. We were going to use a clever simile here (like Abbot and Costello, like a hand and a glove), but the relationship between food and wine is unique. One can have food without wine, but the experience suffers from the absence. And it is fruitless to speak of good food without taking seasonality into account.

It is this last point that we are going to explore here.

The flavors and aromas of autumn are enchanting, tempting and distinct. Some are external to food: the smell of osmanthus, piles of fallen leaves decomposing, and, as the weather cools, the smells of fireplaces. The aromas of autumn food are equally beguiling.

Of course in the Napa Valley autumn runs in two acts.

The first, where daytime temperatures remain high, although the leaves are changing, and the nights are getting chillier, is basically a late extension of summer. The foods overlap. Ripe, sweet tomatoes mingle with deep notes from roasted peppers.

The second is full autumn. Colder temperatures call for heartier food. The leaves are mostly down, and the rain has started. We will take a look at both of these aspects of the season below:

Late Summer Lingering into Autumn 

This is the golden zone where it seems like we are living in an absolute culinary paradise. While we might get a lingering heat wave or two, the days are shortening, and the nights are getting a little cooler. Here in Napa, harvest is happening, and you notice the smell of fermenting wine as you drive up Highway 29.

A step into the garden offers an explosion of tasty produce. Eggplant, tomatoes, bell peppers, and zucchini all vie with each other to grab your attention. The foraging chef will see and smell all of this and might just have one word pop into his head: “Ratatouille”. This dish can be a rustic sauté or it can be a refined, labor-intensive masterpiece.

Fettucine with Goat Cheese, Aucchini, and Sage Brown Butter

Pair with Reserve Chardonnay

Full Autumn Splendor

As temperatures drop and the first rains arrive, Napa Valley transforms into its most contemplative season. The vines stand bare against gray skies, their work complete, while kitchens turn toward comfort and warmth. Root vegetables emerge from storage – butternut squash, parsnips, and sweet potatoes – begging to be roasted until caramelized. Wild mushrooms appear after the rains, offering earthy depth to braised dishes and rich stews. This is when we crave the weight of a robust Cabernet Sauvignon or the complexity of aged Bordeaux blends, wines that can stand up to lamb shanks braised in red wine, or duck confit with roasted root vegetables 

Seared Duck Breast

Pair with a Saltonstall Pinot Noir