The Roots of Agriculture and Its Evolution
It seems almost a truism to say that agriculture is intrinsically linked to the Earth. Without the life-sustaining soil, water, nutrients, and sunlight that make up the terroir, there would be no grapes, nor any other crops. As humans developed into agricultural beings, they have used millennia of observations, trial and error, and innovations to improve yields. Through selective breeding we have honed the various cultivars into exactly what fits our human needs. At our Yountville winery, Hill Family Estate draws from this legacy with a renewed commitment to sustainable practices rooted in the land.
Modern Advances and Their Unintended Costs
Through 19th and 20th century innovations in agricultural practices, humanity has been able to produce more food crops than ever before. Extreme global hunger has been brought down tremendously. Through innovations in transportation, regions have access to food year round that was strictly seasonal in times past. Want a peach in California in January? Have a Chilean peach, flown straight to your market! Want to squeeze one more harvest in for your cereal crops this year? Improved fertilizers and crop breeding can make that possible.
However, as with all things, there are tradeoffs. Flying peaches from one hemisphere to the other racks up quite a cost in carbon dioxide emissions. Excessive nitrogen fertilizers leach excess nutrients into our waterways encouraging the growth of harmful cyanobacteria. And it is not only the environment that bears the costs. A peach picked unripe and flown halfway across the world is not going to be nearly as flavorful as one grown locally and harvested at its peak.
The Turning Point: A Return to Thoughtful Agriculture
By the middle of the twentieth century people started to notice some of the drawbacks of the explosion in agricultural technology. Certain bird and fish species were declining precipitously, and some of the vaunted gains in crop yields were diminishing. Serious cooks and connoisseurs of fine cuisine were noticing that the produce was not as flavorful as it was in times past. And, in the fields, the insects were evolving to tolerate the pesticides, requiring a cat and mouse game between the chemists and the pests.
Farmers turned to a variety of theories of farming, some of which were based in mystical philosophies like those of Rudolf Steiner (biodynamic agriculture), and some rooted in the new scientific field of ecology. What these two different approaches had in common was the observation that the accumulation of poison in the environment had serious consequences, and that often, nature provides the solution to natural problems.
From Vineyards to Restaurants: The Organic Food Movement
In Australia in the 1970s, a young grape grower resisted spraying for caterpillars and later discovered that local birds handled the problem for him—naturally and cost-effectively.
Meanwhile, in Berkeley, California, 1971, Alice Waters opened Chez Panisse, a restaurant that would help pioneer the fresh, local, and eventually organic food movement. While her initial motivation was taste, it led her to the doorstep of organic farmers:
“When I opened up Chez Panisse, I was only thinking about taste. And in doing that, I ended up at the doorstep of [organic farmers].” – Alice Waters
Chez Panisse became the launchpad for numerous iconic food establishments and helped popularize farmers’ markets, reconnecting consumers with fresh, local ingredients.
Organic Challenges and the Realities of Sustainable Farming
There are considerable costs involved in farming, and avoiding synthetic fertilizers and pesticides adds to those costs. Growers must balance environmental stewardship with economic survival.
Here in the Napa Valley, we face our own unique challenges, particularly with endangered steelhead and salmon populations in the Napa River and its tributaries. For that reason, runoff is a top concern for us at Hill Family Estate.
Fish-Friendly and Soil-First: Hill Family Estate’s Organic Approach
Our winery vineyard is a Fish Friendly Certified Farm, as are all our properties. Avoiding runoff into the rivers means rethinking our growing methods. As Leslie Caccamese Hill, General Manager of our farming operations, explains:
“We seed the winery with a combination of brassicas, bell beans, peas and oats. They act as a cover crop, and fix nitrogen with their roots, and, when plowed under, the decomposing biomass will introduce more nutrients for the vines and all of the other life in the soil. Some people refer to this as green manure.”
Without herbicides, we use an undervine hoe plow to eliminate weeds and reduce host environments for pests and disease. Later in the season, dirt is pushed back to smother any germinated weeds—a slower, but soil-friendly process.
Integrated Pest Management: Letting Nature Lead
Our vineyard management follows Integrated Pest Management (IPM) principles. We don’t preemptively spray for pests. Instead, we rely on timely interventions and natural predators whenever possible.
To combat fungi—such as powdery mildew and phomopsis blight—we use a mineral oil and copper spray instead of harsher fungicides.
Technology and Tradition in Harmony
Sustainability also means innovation. We’ve recently invested in a zero-emission Monarch electric tractor, which helps us avoid 54 metric tons of CO₂ emissions annually while operating much more quietly. Combined with new solar panels on our winery roof, we’ll save approximately 2,100 gallons of diesel each year.
We’re also transitioning to lighter glass bottles, reducing carbon emissions during manufacturing and shipping without compromising wine quality.
And we remain committed to natural cork closures—a time-honored tradition that protects cork oak forests in Portugal. Our cork usage helps conserve 347 trees across 2.8 hectares and retains over 327.6 tonnes of CO₂.
Earth Month and Beyond: Our Commitment to the Future
While fighting for the health of the ecosystem can be costly and challenging, it is a responsibility we at Hill Family Estate proudly accept. Every spring, the new growth on the vines reminds us of nature’s cycle—and our role as stewards of this land.
Earth Month provides a moment of reflection, encouraging us to improve, innovate, and reaffirm our commitment to sustainability. At our Yountville winery, sustainability isn’t just a buzzword—it’s essential to preserving Napa Valley and securing the future of small, independent, family-farmed wineries.